The Pelican Guide to Dublin’s Pubs
By Eamonn Casey
By the 18th century, the area of Kilnamanagh once again assumed a role of some importance on the main Dublin/Carlow Turnpike Road. This route passed along the modern day Greenhillls Road, and was in those days subject to the collection of tolls. Travellers would at that time exchange or rest their horses and avail of the hospitality and the nourishing brews dispensed by the Gibton family, who owned a local tavern here in 1739, suitably named “The Kilnamanagh Inn”. This better known today as the “The Cuckoo’s Nest”.
This premises has over the past 250 years established a reputation as providing some of the richest and most historic insights into Dublin pub life. Perhaps the most interesting story is that the premises was once owned by a minister of the church in the Rev. George Bradley of Omagh, Co. Tyrone, who inherited it from Charles Higginson on the 22nd January, 1864. Like all good men of the cloth, we must assume that the Rev. George was only partial to occasional alcoholic indulgence as he leased the premises 21 months later, on the 27th October, 1865 to Edward Keating for an annual rent of Stg. £25. It is possible that his own profession provided a more reliable turnover.
During its long history the premises was also owned by a Goldsmith, a pawnbroker, a Solicitor and an American who spent is summers in Ireland, but like the “Cuckoo”, migrated to the more favourable climates of the United States in winter-time.
By far the most detailed and amusing account of the premises comes to us from the last Will and Testimony of Richard Allen, who had possession from 1800-1814. This Will begin with the most pleading, pious and sanctimonious invocations to God, earnestly requested the gift of salvation. Theoretical Christianity is however soon distanced from reality as he takes a most vindictive swipe at his eldest son, saying that:
“I will give one shilling and no more to my son William, he having used me in a manner unbecoming a child to a parent, both before and after the death of my dear wife Clare Allen, and his turning papist with his wife, and his making away with more than half of the freehold property that he was in possession of at the time time of his mother’s death.”
That certainly put paid to any aspirations that William may have entertained about a future in the licensed trade.
In 1912, the premises acquired a licence to operate a ballroom, a development, I’m sure, that would not have amused Mr. Allen in his day. At this time, the townland of Kilnamanagh was the epitome of rural Dublin - country roads, green fertile fields and gentle flowing rivers enriched by the fullness of nature. One venerable gentleman, who was raised in the area recalls that “the surrounding trees were regularity occupied each summer by a number of nesting cuckoos”. This may very well be the most credible explanation as to the derivation to the title “Cuckoo’s Nest”.
In August, 1962, The Cuckoo’s Nest was acquired by its present owners Peader and Phyllis Lynch. The Tallaght of that era was parochial and essentially agricultural community of not more that 300 people living in the immediate area. Phyllis Lunch states “that the area was one of dairy farmland, where you awoke at morning time to the sounds of milk churns.” Indeed, the size of the community and the level of trade can be properly gauged, when you realise that the weekly turnover did not exceed £200.
Before long, however, the Lynches began extensions of facilities to premises which today comfortably accommodates 1,250 people. In 1963 they introduced Pitch and Putt to the public and also int that year they acquired the first coloured television to the licensed trade, which brought large clientele from the surrounding parishes. Each Sunday evening, they held an orderly “Singing Session” in the bar which attracted a bus load weekly from Walkinstown. As was customary with a group who had consumed liberal quantities of “the Juice of the Barley”, they continued to entertain the bus driver on the journey home and were duly christened “The Cuckoo Choir”.
Today, the Cuckoo’s Nest is properly recognised as one of the best run and one of the premier social meeting places in Dublin pub life. Last year, the premises completed a major renovation, which has given the large lounge a very distinctive ambience due to the resplendent stained oakwood fittings. Peader and Phyllis have no been joined at the helm by their son, Bernard, who explains “that the pubs of today must reflect that character of the modern licensed trade.”
The Sunday afternoon Jazz session and the large Open Market, which is held in the car park are a decided advantage to the weekly trade. However, the greatest success story must surely surely story must lie in the huge food trade which the premises enjoys 6 days of week. Under the watchful eye of Chef, David Lancaster, who previously spent 12 years in the Shelbourne, the premises operates a succulent carvery each day and 9 other main dishes. On Saturdays, David offers a special Coddle dish which is attracting food lovers from many parts.
At the Cuckoo’s Nest the great traditions of past and present, old and new, come together. Here, “you can even find the descendants who bear and name of St. Kevin - this is the first or second home to St. Kevins GAA Club - I’m not sure of which one!”
